This craft was originally created for and published by design*sponge. Welcome, design*sponge readers!

I found a pile of buttermilk, chocolate milk and orange juice vintage bottle caps tucked away in a cardboard box in a lovely antique store in Savannah, Georgia. I thought, why not turn them into retro refrigerator magnets to show them off while making them useful once again?

Milk used to be carried and delivered in glass bottles starting in the late 1800s and capped the tops until around the mid 1950s. Dairies printed their names on the top of the cardboard caps to encourage return and reuse.

You can find your own from dairies all over – Indiana, Nebraska, New York, Quebec, California, and more. There you’ll also find cardboard caps for cottage cheese, whipping cream, orange drink, fruit punch and other treats as well as ads for ice cream and other items.

I just love the graphic design and typography on vintage milk and juice bottle caps. Aren’t they fun and full of personality?

My goal is to make things that are simple and useful, playful and clever. I think refrigerator magnets happily showcase these little vintage circles of art.

WANNA MAKE IT? Supply list and DIY step-by-step instructions for creating my refrigerator magnets from vintage milk and juice bottle caps after the jump –>

Supplies:

• (see current eBay auctions below) – I prefer the ones that are fully flat but they are also available raised edges. I have 10 sets of my bottle caps for sale for those who prefer that style. Just email me.
• 3/4-inch round disc magnets
• Glue gun (preferably cordless like this one) and glue sticks

Here are current eBay auctions for vintage milk bottle caps:

Please post a comment below if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

Using a hot glue gun, glue the disc magnet to the center of the cardboard milk cap back.

Press and hold to attach.

Allow to dry thoroughly before using; I waited a couple hours.

Using the Wink iPhone application from Shutterfly I made some super cute photobooth-like strips of Elise – one of her swinging in Wicker Park and another of her playing with her butterfly.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this idea and project instructions for your own personal use. Contact me for any commercial use – this includes etsy sellers.

Please post a comment below if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

My friend K.C. MacQueen asked me to be an artist for the second annual Pritzker School Community Art Project: “Birdhouses.” Artists create a birdhouse for display in local Wicker Park stores. Home Tweet Home graced the front store window at Stitch boutique in Bucktown for two weeks before being auctioned off.

I’m more of a fabric than a hammer type of girl so decided to make a pillow. And you’re going to flip when you see my tissue paper tracing sewing machine embroidery technique. It opens up so many possibilities!

The birdhouse pillow was inspired by a wrinkly 1969 vintage linen calendar from my extensive collection (I’m a junkie).

I traced the birdhouse onto tissue paper, lengthened the pole and pinned it to the front of 100% wool felt.

Then I sewed through the tissue paper onto the wool using colorful teal, light blue and yellow thread …and tore away the tissue paper to reveal the sewn image.

I added a handwritten “tweet” detail in orange using the same technique.

I’m excited about devising this tissue paper technique on my own – even though others may have already uncovered it. I dislike fabric ink pens especially on nice fabric because it never really full disappears. And you have to freehand draw right the first time.

In contrast my tisssue paper method makes it much easier to keep drawing on paper until you get it right …or trace a reference piece like I did for this project …and sew your embroidery just right.

I closed the pillow with turquoise grosgrain ribbon zipper detailing that became a happy accident that I love.

Here it is close up. The pillow insert contains down feathers, naturally :)

Using tissue paper and your sewing machine is a super fun way to adorn pillows, aprons, totes, dresses …you name it. So get out your Sharpies and sewing machines and get to it!

WANNA MAKE IT? Free template, supply list and DIY step-by-step instructions for creating my embroidered birdhouse pillow using tissue paper and sewing machine after the jump –>

Supplies:

• Kathy’s free birdhouse pattern template from a 1969 vintage linen calendar (PDF – I traced the bird too but you can choose to sew just the birdhouse like I did. Cut the tweet out separately and place as in the photo.)
• 1/2 yard outside fabric (I used 100% cream wool felt that I’d been saving)
• 1/2 yard sew-in interfacing
• 1 yard 7/8″ grosgrain ribbon
• Zipper – 14″ or 16″
• Down feather pillow insert – 12″x16″ size
• Tissue paper (1-2 sheets)
• Sharpie ultra-fine-point colored markers
• Pins
• Good iron
• Ironing board
• Sewing machine
• Rotary fabric cutter, self-healing cutting mat and clear acrylic ruler
• Good fabric scissors

Please post a comment below if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

Cut fabric pattern pieces and embroider birdhouse
Cut two wool rectangles 13″ x 17″ each. Also cut two rectangles from the sew-in interfacing 13″ x 17″ each. Sew interfacing onto the wrong side of the wool sewing close to the edges.

Print my free birdhouse pattern template. Remember not to “fit to page” when you print. Place a piece of tissue paper on top of your printout and trace with a colored Sharpie pen that matches the color you’ll be sewing (I didn’t do this; I used black at first. Keep reading below to see how the “tweet” was much easier when I used a colored Sharpie). Test it first to make sure that the pressure you’re using will not bleed onto what you’re tracing.

Pin the tissue paper tracing in place. Remember to leave 1/2″ for your seams when positioning your pattern.

Sew using colored thread using the double stitch setting on your sewing machine. Or if you don’t have a double stitch setting you can stitch once and then stitch again on top of it if you’d like the stitching to be more prominent.

Carefully peel away the tissue paper to reveal the stitching.

Clean up any stubborn tissue bits using a needle. Use a bit of water for stuck pieces. Here’s where in hindsight I recommend using a colored Sharpie that matches the thread color you’ll be using in case you miss any tiny bits.

Embroider the hole in the birdhouse by sewing in a circle using a double stitch until the entire area is filled in with thread.

Add “Tweet”
Cut out the “tweet” template …or do what I did …just write “tweet” on a piece of paper until you like it. Then trace onto tissue paper using a Sharpie pen that’s the same general color as your thread (I learned after using a black marker above that a colored Sharpie will be more forgiving).

Pin the tissue paper “tweet” onto the pillow.

Sew using a double stitch setting on your sewing machine. Sew the longest continuous line possible at at time.

Carefully pull away the tissue paper. See how using a colored Sharpie pen makes this step even easier? And again you can always use a needle and water to get out any stubborn tissue bits.

Your finished “tweet” will look like so:

Add grosgrain ribbon zipper detailing
This started as an idea to bind the pillow with grosgrain ribbon on all four sides. It morphed into something better. Oh, happy accidents!

Cut two pieces of grosgrain ribbon to fit across the width of your pillow. Pin one to the bottom edge of your front piece.

Sew very close to the edge on both sides of the ribbon.

Repeat on the back side with the other cut ribbon.

Put your zipper centered face down on the right side of your pillow back. Line up the outside zipper edge with the pillow edge. Pin.

Sew using a zipper foot very close to the zipper teeth.

Line up and pin the other side of your zipper to the right side of your pillow front.

Sew using your zipper foot close to the zipper teeth.

Attach the front and back
With right sides together line up your pillow front and back. Sew the right side of your grosgrain zipper detailing 2 inches and backstitch; I backstitch here back and forth a lot so the stitches won’t pull when zipping/unzipping. Repeat on the left side.

Unzip your zipper if you haven’t already; otherwise you’ll sew the pillow shut! Continue around the pillow, stitching the side and top seams using 1/2″ seam. Ensure your edges are even; I tend to avoid pins when I can but that’s your call.

Turn the pillow right side out.

Stuff the pillow using a down pillow insert. Zip closed.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this idea and project instructions for personal use. Contact me for any commercial use – this includes etsy sellers.

Please post a comment below if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

The pincushion thread catcher that my mom gave me years ago is my sewing table’s best friend. Yeah, I know it seems a little grandma-ish but it’s no surprise that I’m a big fan of things that are both clever and cute.

A pincushion thread catcher is basically a weighted pincushion on top like this…

…that anchors your own little trashcan for stray threads and empty thread spools that you throw in here like so…

Convenient, yes?

I made this red pincushion thread catcher thank you gift for my friend Susan who let me deeply dip into her fabric stash while getting ready for the 2008 Renegade Craft Fair. Yep, I said 2008. That makes this thank you gift 18 months late. Terrible, I know. But better late than never.

I reverse-engineered my mom’s pattern, doubled the pin cushion size, and voila! An easy free tutorial for how to make a pincushion thread catcher.

Step-by-step tutorial instructions and supplies for the pincushion thread catcher after the jump –>

Supplies:

• 1/2 yard outside fabric (Susan’s is red, white and black flowers)
• 1/2 yard lining fabric (Susan’s is black)
• Thread
• Good fabric scissors
• Pillow stuffing
• Two metal door hinges to use as weights (from the hardware store)
• Plastic clothes line to use as boning (optional)
• Wire cutters (if you use the clothes line boning)
• Rotary fabric rotary cutter, self-healing gridded rotary mat and clear fabric ruler
• Good iron
• Ironing board
• Sewing machine

NOTE: All seams are 1/2″.

Please post a comment below if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

Cut your pieces
Use your rotary fabric rotary cutter, self-healing gridded rotary mat and clear fabric ruler to cut out the following pieces:

Outside fabric (the red flowers)

• Pincushion: Cut two 9″ x 5″ rectangles
• Straps: Cut two 4″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles
• Bag: Cut one 17 1/2″ x 11″ rectangle

Lining (black)

• Bag: Cut one 17 1/2″ x 11″ rectangle

Make the pincushion
Fold the straps in half and sew a 1/2″ seam.

Maneuver the seam to the center and press the seam open. Turn right side out and ensure the seam is on the back of the strap (rather than on one of the sides or the front).

Put the pincushion piece face up on your table. Place the straps 1.5″ from each side of the pincushion piece on one of the 9″ long sides.

Fold right sides together, sandwiching the two straps inside.

Sew the pincushion shut, leaving about 3″ open on one of the short sides so that you can turn it right side out. Trim the corners a bit but not too close.

Turn the bag right side out through the opening. Press your fingers into the corner.

Press flat and set aside.

Make the bag
Fold the bag in half right sides together. Sew the side seam.

Press the seam open and move it to the center like you did above for the straps. Sew the bottom seam.

Make your thread catcher basket bottom by creating a triangle where the side seam meets the bottom. Your triangle should be 1 1/2″ wide with the seam flattened open. Mark with a pencil and sew across the bottom of the triangle.

Turn the bag right side out to see how it creates a soft bottom.

Make the bag lining
Basically you do the same thing here as the bag outside with one important difference: You leave a hole in the side seam so that you can turn all of this stuff rightside out.

Like the bag outside fold right sides together. But instead of sewing the entire seam, starting from the top, sew 4″ of the side seam. Backstitch.

Then go to the bottom and sew 2″ of the sides seam.

See the hole? This is important later.

Now just repeat what you did for the bag outside to finish off this lining. Sew the bottom seam.

Sew 1 1/2″ triangles on the bottom to create a soft bottom.

Stop here though …leave the lining with the right side in, wrong side out.

Attach the pincushion to the bag
Line up the pincushion straps on the back of the bag. The back of the bag should be facing (touching) the back of the straps (so in other words, the seam-side of the bag and the seam-side of the straps should be touching each other).

Sew the straps to the bag.

Attach the bag outside / pincushion straps to the bag lining
So your bag is right side out and your lining is right side in. This is going to sound weird, but put your bag inside your lining matching up the back seams, and pin. See how the right sides are together? Eventually you’re going to pull this through the lining hole that you made.

Make sure your straps are tucked between the lining outside and lining inside. Sew all the way around to attach the bag outside to its lining.

Pay no attention to my messy sewing table :) Turn the pincushion right side out through the lining hole.

Add in the clothesline boning (optional)
So while this step is optional it helps your thread catcher bag stay open and generally makes the whole thing look nicer.

Cut a 17″ piece of plastic clothes line using wire cutters.

Make a circle with the clothes line and secure raw edges with a piece of tape.

Slip the circle inside the lining hole and work it up to the top of the bag. Secure with pins.

Sew around the bag close to the “boning.”

It looks great like this!

Stuff and weight the pincushion
Now my mom’s pincushion was filled with sand, but I’ve read that sand can dull pins. I picked up a couple door hinges for 89 cents each at the local hardware store to use as weights. Then I secured them together using floral wire.

Slip the hinges into the bottom of the pincushion.

Stuff the pincushion with polyfill, keeping the hinges on the bottom as weights with the polyfill on top and on the sides.

Hand sew the pincushion closed using a slipstitch.

Close the bag
Hand sew the opening inside the bag closed using a slipstitch.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this idea and project instructions for personal use. Contact me for any commercial use – this includes etsy sellers.

Please post a comment below if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

We’re in the middle of converting our den into a baby’s room. We’re keeping it simple — borrowed our niece Madison’s crib, kept the room painted light gray — and have begun accenting with oodles of girly fabric.

This project focuses on how to make a dust ruffle bed skirt for a crib or toddler bed. Below is what the crib looked like before…

Voila! All the extra diapers, humidifier and accessories are now hidden under a wall of pink below…

The biggest challenge making this dust ruffle project is dealing with the volumes of fabric. But overall, it’s basically easy straight stitching to get a custom bedskirt in your fabric of choice at the right crib height.

Supplies:

• 6 yards pink fabric, 44 inches wide (NOTE: This is based on my crib’s measurements which I’m guessing is pretty standard but please refer to my step-by-step instructions below to measure your own crib or bed before buying your fabric)
• Pink thread
• Quilting pins
• Gridded self-healing rotary mat, clear fabric ruler and rotary fabric cutter
• Good Rowenta iron and ironing board
• Sewing machine

Cut your base piece

Your base piece is the fabric that will go under your mattress; eventually you’ll be attaching your ruffles to all four sides of this piece. Usually store-bought brands use a thin white material for the base piece but I used pink to avoid instances where the white creeps out on the edges …I think that’s sloppy-looking and it bugs me so I say make a colored base piece.

For size, measure the metal crib base underneath the mattress and add 2” to each. For instance, our crib base was 50.5” x 26.5”, so I cut a base piece that was 52.5” x 28.5”.

Cut your ruffle pieces

Cut two side ruffle pieces and two front/back pieces. Again, you’ll be dealing with a lot of fabric here so I recommend measuring twice and cutting once.

For the two left/right side pieces: Measure the width of the metal crib base underneath the mattress, multiply by 2x and add 2 inches. Measure the height of the metal crib base to the floor and add 4”. For instance, our crib width was 26.5” and 18” to the floor, so I cut two 55” x 22” pieces.

For the two front/back pieces: Measure the length of the metal crib base underneath the mattress multiply by 2x and add 2 inches. Measure the height of the metal crib base to the floor and add 4”. For instance, our crib length was 50.5” and 18” to the floor, so I cut two 103” x 22” pieces.

Because I bought 44″ wide fabric and was making an 18″ high bed skirt, I was able to just slice the fabric down the middle to make the two ruffles (they are both 22″ high).

Make side seams on ruffle pieces

Take one of your ruffle pieces and put one of the left/right short ends wrong side up on your ironing board. Turn the short end under 0.5 inch and press. Turn it again 0.5 inch and press; notice that your raw edge is now hidden within the ironed seam. Sew a straight stitch close to the edge to create a side seam. Repeat on the other short end of your ruffle piece.

Repeat this step for the other three ruffle pieces.

Make hems on bottom sides of on ruffle pieces
Place one of your seamed ruffle pieces wrong side up on your ironing board. Turn up one of the long edges .5 inches and press. You’ll be dealing with a lot of fabric here so just roll it over your board and iron as you go.

Now turn up the same long side 2.5 inches and press; notice that your bottom raw edge is now hidden within the hem.

Sew a straight stitch close to the edge to create a hem. Note that your top edge (the one opposite of the sewn hem) will still be raw. Repeat this step for the other three ruffle pieces.

Baste and gather your ruffle
Change your sewing machine stitch to a long stitch. Sew basting stitches along the raw top edge about 0.5 inch down. Remember *not* to backstitch – you want to be able to pull the threads later to make your gathers. Sew a second row of basting stitches about 0.75 inches down from your first stitch. (Now yes, you can gather with only doing one stitch but I think it’s easier to make the gathers with two, and it protects you if one of the thread breaks as you’re pulling it).

Take the two top threads on one side and pull. Your fabric will start to gather. Push the gathers towards the middle, working from each side to evenly distribute the gathers. You’ll want to gather the fabric until it’s 1 inch shorter than your base fabric on both sides. In other words, take the width of your base piece, subtract 2”, and gather your ruffles to that measurement.

Repeat this step for the other three ruffle pieces.

Attach your ruffles to the base piece
Here is the method that I worked out so I could finish the seams while avoiding getting out my serger ☺

Line up the gathered end of one ruffle onto the base piece, right sides together. Place the ruffle’s raw gathered edge 0.5” from the raw *long* edge of the base piece. You’ll have 1” of exposed base piece on the left and right side of the ruffle. Turn the base piece’s raw edge under 0.5” and then again 0.5” to hide the ruffle. Your raw edges should now be sealed. Pin.

Continue along the entire long edge of your ruffle piece.

Sew close to the edge. Repeat this step for the other three ruffles. When you get to a corner, turn the sewn edge down on itself like in the photo below.

Fold your raw edge up 0.5″ and then another 0.5″ to hide edges inside the hem.

Pin and sew close to edge as above.

Adjust hem as your child grows
As you adjust the bed lower and lower, your bedskirt will need to be re-hemmed so that it continues to brush the floor rather than puddle onto it. Just measure the new height, turn up all four sides to that height, and sew.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this project and pattern template for your own personal use. Please post a comment below or email me if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

Happy Fall! I love this time of year …changing leaves, football, pumpkins, cider, late-afternoon sunshine, scarves. And fun fall crafting, of course.

This paper wreath took me all of about 15 minutes to make because I started with the fabric wreath base I made last year for the Polaroid urban photo wreath. Below I’ve included full instructions but it’s worth bearing in mind that once you make the fabric base you can just switch out elements year after year to make a totally new wreath.

Alternatively, you can buy a kit that contains leaves and a wire wreath, but I like the look of torn fabric and paper together.

Supplies:

• 1 package small die-cut paper leaves (or if you’ve got time, print and cut these leaves in PDF, 19MB)
• Styrofoam wreath 12 x 2-1/4 x 2 with flat front and back
• Burnt orange lightweight denim fabric
• Straight pins
• Piece of twine
• Wreath hanger for doors

Measure 3 inches from the edge of the orange denim fabric and cut a small slit. Holding on each side of the slit, rip the fabric into a strip …just like they do at the fabric store. Repeat until you have three strips. The raw edges are intentional.

Take one strip and pin it to the styrofoam. Wrap the strips around, overlapping as you go around. Secure the ends of the strips with straight pins. Tie your twine to the top as a hanger.

Spread out your leaves on a flat surface.

Arrange your leaves in layers on the wreath front, alternating colors and shapes.

Secure leaves with straight pins. You actually need to use very few …one pin can secure several leaves at one time.

Hang your wreath on your door hook. Happy Fall, everyone!

My friend Heather Crosby and I have creative chemistry. Whenever we get together we build on each other’s ideas until it becomes something totally original.

Heather came over for dinner last week toting stacks of Polaroid pictures that she’d snapped that weekend – bright yellow mums, pumpkin patches, rows of individual pies, Indian corn, orange marigolds, gourds, colorful fall trees against blue skies, and other Midwestern fall finds.

I took a look and immediately thought of turning them into an urban wreath to perfectly accent our Chicago city apartment door.

You’re welcome to use these instructions and templates for free for your own personal use. Anyone using the template simply post a comment below or email me to track its usage.

Supplies:

• Polaroid photos: Pack of five instant film takes 50 Photos
• Styrofoam wreath (I used 12x2x2; here’s one that’s 10X2X1-1/4)
• Scotch double-sided removable foam adhesive
• Burnt orange lightweight denim fabric
• Straight pins
• Raffia
• Wreath hanger

Measure 3 inches from the edge of the orange denim fabric and cut a small slit. Holding on each side of the slit, rip the fabric into a strip …just like they do at the fabric store. Repeat until you have three strips.

Take one strip and pin it to the styrofoam. Wrap the strips around, overlapping as you go around. Secure the ends of the strips with straight pins.

Select your Polaroid photos. We chose pumpkins, mums, gourds, Indian corn, mini-pies, marigolds and fall trees.

Tie one piece of raffia around the top to make a hanger. Lay out your photos onto the covered wreath, overlapping and layering them.

Cut the removable foam adhesive into smaller squares. Remove the backing from both sides and slip under the Polaroids to attach them to the wreath.

And there you have it: The Urban Wreath. While intended for covered apartment or condo front doors, I couldn’t resist hanging it outside over the beautiful 70 degree (!!) November weekend we just had in Chicago.

And in true Heather fashion, I love the back of this wreath just as much as the front.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this project and pattern for your own personal use. Please post a comment below or email me if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

So when I first invented chalkboard pillows I handmade the chalkboards out of plastic, a knife, drill and chalkboard spray paint. Yeah, it took a long time.

But now I’ve discovered the joys of chalkboard cloth fabric which has allowed me to make shapes galore for adults and kids – trucks, airplanes, butterflies, dinosaurs and flowers for the kids and rectangles for adults. And I think they look just as cute blank as doodled.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this project and pattern for your own personal use. Please post a comment below or email me if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being created. Craft and pass it on!

Supplies (for the 16″ x 16″ pillow):

• 16″ x 16″ pillow (I used 10/90 down-feather blend pillows)
• 17″ x 17″ fabric square for front
• 17″ x 17″ fabric square for back (I used lovely wool gabardine)
• Two squares 17″ x 17″ heavyweight sew-in stabilizer (optional but highly recommended to add weight and crispness)
• Truck chalkboard template or Dinosaur chalkboard template (PDF, use if desired or cut your own shape, or ask me and I’ll post the butterfly, flower or airplane)
• Chalkboard cloth (this stuff is super cool)
• Chalk
• Small piece of sandpaper
• 12″ or 14″ zipper
• Good fabric scissors
• Thread
• Rotary fabric rotary cutter, clear fabric ruler and self-healing mat
• Xacto knife set (optional but recommended to help cut the chalkboard fabric)
• Sewing machine

Create chalkboard front

Print and cut out one of my free templates or make your own shape. Cut your 17″ x 17″ front and back pieces and two pieces of stabilizer using your rotary cutter, ruler and self-healing mat. Place the front piece and pattern on top of your pillow to make sure you like the size (you can re-print to shrink it if you’d like).

Place the right side of the template face down on the wrong side of the chalkboard cloth fabric. Trace it using a black pen. Cut using good fabric scissors, using the Xacto knife on any tight corners.

Put one of your stabilizer interfacing pieces of underneath the front fabric square (it helps you sew a smoother applique). Center your cut chalkboard shape on the front fabric square, placing straight pins on the sides to mark placement. Zigzag stitch the shape onto the front fabric square. Remember to backstitch.

Put in your zipper
Zippers can be scary sometimes but I really like having zippers in pillows so that I can take over the cover if needed. First, take your front chalkboard piece and zigzag down the side that you want to put the zipper on (like the side with the bottom of the plane) to attach the stabilizer to the front of your pillow (left photo below). Repeat on the back of your pillow by stitching along the edge to attach the back stabilizer to the wrong side of the back of the pillow. This zigzag step makes it easier to work with and your seam finish is nicer.

Now open your zipper and lay it face down onto the right side of the front of your pillow, centering the zipper along the bottom of the pillow front (see right photo above). Pin the bottom side of the zipper to the pillow front. Leave the top of the zipper free (you’ll be sewing that to the back of the pillow).

Change your presser foot by putting your zipper foot on your sewing machine (you can sew it on with the regular foot but the zipper foot lets you sew closer to the zipper teeth). Sew a straight stitch down the zipper as close to the teeth as you can. Remember to backstitch.

Put the right side of your bottom on your table. Lay your pillow front on top of your back piece, right sides together, matching up zipper tops and bottoms to be sure that your zipper will close straight. Pin the unsewn side of the zipper to the back of your pillow. Your zipper will be face down on the right side of your pillow back. Sew a straight stitch down the zipper as close to the teeth as you can. Remember to backstitch. Now your zipper is in.

Sew pillow front to pillow back

Line up the pillow front to the pillow back, right sides together. Pin. Be sure the zipper is open. Now sew 1/2 inch seam around the pillow. On the bottom where the zipper is I sew about 2 inches on each side (don’t sew across the entire zipper side).

Finish your seams by zigzagging around the three sides of the pillow (not the zipper side). Cut any stray threads. Turn right side out. Stuff your pillow with your pillow form.

Now rough up your chalk using a piece of sandpaper to avoid permanently etching the chalkboard. Start doodling! Wipe with a wet paper towel. Repeat.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this project and pattern for your own personal use. Please post a comment below or email me if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!

Watch out Speed Racer. Mom of two Amy Herlihy hand painted racing car wall art to match her son Kieran’s racing themed comforter and pillow sham. Now Kieran has his dream bedroom. And it’s a lot easier than it may look…

Supplies:

• 3D stretched canvases(choose your sizes)
• Acrylic paint
• Selection of brushes and a painting knife for mixing
• Plastic mixing yray
• Small art sponges
• Paint pens for outlining and detail work
• Printed color photo of the image you want to paint for your reference when drawing/painting—or refer to the object itself

Here’s how Amy created her son’s coordinated haven: Mix the paints with the painting knife to achieve the background color you want for the picture. Liberally apply paint to the canvas with a large brush. Paint the edges too. With a lightly damp art sponge, gently dab the painted canvas and its edges to achieve texture. If you get bare spots, add more paint and dab again. Allow to dry overnight.

After the background is dry, use a pencil to freehand draw your image onto the canvas.

(OK …let’s pause here for a minute. So Amy’s a closet artist and can draw freehand. Well, here’s a foolproof tip for the rest of us. Simply place the Artograph Tracer Projector on top of your image or object, adjust sizing, and it will project instantly and clearly onto your canvas. Now just trace the image directly onto the canvas with a light pencil. Easy peasy.)

Using appropriate sized brushes, paint color blocks first (let dry), then outlines and details. Amy said she used a tiny brush for outlines and details but finds sometimes paint pens are good for this. Balance your composition by applying color blocks to the corners if needed. Amy loosely tracked the shape of the car when creating the color blocks.

You can use the Artograph Tracer Projector to paint wall murals too…

I visited my parents in Indiana this Easter weekend and it felt like Spring outside! The crocuses are even coming up which is a sure sign of hope.

I made this garden mosaic stepping stone for my Dad’s birthday. My dad’s a huge gardener and hummingbird fan but you could use the glass pieces to create your own design.

Supplies:

• Mosaic Stepping Stone Kit (includes mold, 7 lbs. of mix, and stained glass mosaic pieces)
• Spatula and bucket
• Newspaper or craft paper
• Water

You can follow the easy kit directions but here’s a summary so you know what you’re getting into: Trace the outline of the stepping stone mold onto newspaper or kraft paper. Lay out your mosaic design. Here’s a tip: put the pieces on their side to create outlines.

For easier clean up, I kept the stepping stone mix in the bag and placed in inside the bucket. Stir in water according to the kit directions. The mix should look like brownie batter. Empty mixture into the mold and use a spatula to smooth. Grasp two corners and gently jiggle it back and forth until the surface levels out.

Transfer your glass design from the planning paper one stone at a time. Push each glass piece into the mix until the until the top of the glass is level with the surface of the stone mixture. Leave a bit of space between each piece.

Let your stone cure out of direct sunlight, waiting at least 2 days to remove it from the mold. Scrape the edges to smooth them and wash it well with dish soap and water to shine the glass. Wait a week before stepping on the stone.

++ UPDATED: I have evolved this craft considerably and posted a MUCH better way to make them. Please go to http://www.merrimentdesign.com/chalkboard-pillows-for-kids-and-adults-redux.php instead. And enjoy!! ++

I’m really excited about my newest creation: Chalkboard pillows!

The idea originally came to me last fall when I was spray painting some glass vases with chalkboard spray paint. I thought it would be fun to be able to write things on a pillow and display it on my black leather recliner. So when I saw that Design*Sponge was holding a 2008 DIY contest I decided to make chalkboard pillows a reality.

I’m happy to announce that out of 500 entries I was chosen as a semi-finalist!

I love that this idea has so much range. I made three classic ‘adult’ pillows with rectangle chalkboards on gray nubby wool fronts (to play off the chalkboard eraser) and dupioni silk gray striped backs (to add a little sophistication as well as make it reversible) with colorful zippers and stitching in orange, yellow and blue.

I also made a whimsical kid’s version with a truck-shaped chalkboard on Japanese imported automobile fabric and red wool gabardine back with red zipper and stitching.

My friend Heather Crosby hosted a pillow photo shoot in her Pilsen home. A thousand thanks to Heather for letting me tap her fantastic photo set styling and photography skills! And here are her two favorite outtakes from our fun day:

Supplies (for the 18″ x 18″ pillow):

• 18″ x 18″ pillow (I used 10/90 down-feather blend)
• 19″ x 19″ fabric square for front
• 19″ x 19″ fabric square for back
• Two squares 19″ x 19″ medium weight no-sew stabilizer (optional but recommended to add weight and crispness)
• 14″ zipper (optional but recommended)
• 8″ x 6.5″ rectangle (or cut your own fun shape!) ‘chalkboard’ from .06 thick plastic styrene sheet (which is is also very good for handbag bottoms) or you could try thin wood
• Truck chalkboard template (PDF, use if desired)
• Krylon Chalkboard Paint
• Embroidery floss
• Thread
• Drill with small drill bit (I used 3/32″)
• X-ACTO knife, metal ruler, gridded self-healing rotary mat
• Fine sandpaper (optional but recommended)

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this project and templates for your own personal use. Contact me for any commercial, distributed or published use.

First create your chalkboard. Trace a rectangle or shape onto the plastic using a Sharpie. You can use my truck pattern if you want. Using your metal ruler cut out the shape by running your X-ACTO knife next to the ruler. When making round shapes such as the truck tires be patient, just cut in the same spot over and over again and it will break through.

Lightly sanding your cut plastic piece is optional but I think it looks nicer to round off edges and rough up the front so the spray paint adheres better. Wipe off any dust using a wet lint-free cloth and let dry. Mark and drill holes 1/4 inch from each side on all four corners. The plastic is really easy to drill through, so I like to tape it on a cardboard box for easy control. Follow the spray paint directions to coat your chalkboard with three coats.

If using stabilizer, baste it onto the wrongside of the front and back so it’s easier to work with. If you’re putting in a zipper here are two ways to do it, either topstitched or not. Start by marking a dot 2 1/2 inches from both the left and right sides your front piece on one side. With right sides together, sew one side of the front to the back using a 1/2 inch seam up to the dots, leaving the middle open.

For topstitched: Baste the middle using a 1/2 inch seam. Press the seam open. Place the zipper face down and hand baste. Topstitch through the zipper. Take out your basting stitches.

Not topstitched: With the zipper open and face down on the right side of the fabric, sew one half of the zipper onto the front piece and the other half onto the back.

Sew around the other three sides of the pillow. I then add a tight zigzag stitch to make inside seam edges pristine. Turn right side out. Sew the chalkboard onto the front using floss. Insert the pillow form and sketch away!

Like these pillows but don’t want to make them yourself? Contact me and I’ll help.

COPYRIGHT NOTE: You’re more than welcome to use this project and pattern for your own personal use. Please post a comment below or email me if you use this project so I can smile when I see that it’s being used. Craft and pass it on!